Climbing the Cliffs of Moher

Climbing the Cliffs of Moher

The famous Cliffs of Moher are one of the most visited tourist sites in Ireland, with almost a million visitors a year. After taking the car ferry over the channel from Troger, I headed for Loophead first, to check out the lighthouse and walk the loop around the peninsula head, with breathtaking cliffside views, before driving to the Cliffs of Moher. The drive on the peninsula is on some of those quintessential Irish roads – two-way...

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Dawdling Around Dingle

Dawdling Around Dingle

This time I got lucky on a farm (at least in terms of accommodations!) I was a little leery after my other nightmare stay on a dairy farm, but Murphy’s Farmhouse, my B&B for the night near Castlemaine, was delightful. It’s a lovely place, perfectly situated at the start of the ring around Dingle, and they had a single room available, which is something you find quite often in Europe that I rarely find in the US. As a solo...

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Killarney, Town & Country

Killarney, Town & Country

The scenic route from Kenmare to Killarney includes winding roads through the Killarney National Park, as well as rain and sun and rain again, mist and clouds, green green hills, and even greener moss, soft as a blanket. The lakes you pass are worth a stop. I could have stayed and gazed at the views for days. For a break from the car, I took a long hike to Torc waterfall, and spent a couple of hours on a rocky, muddy trail, up and down, mostly...

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Kenmare and the Magical Ring of Kerry

Kenmare and the Magical Ring of Kerry

Kenmare, one of the loveliest little towns in Ireland, is full of music and magic. My B&B host suggested a few different places for “craic,’ which is what the Irish call fun, entertainment, gossip, news, and enjoyable conversation. In Ireland, it’s all about the music. I’d been told several times to do as the locals do – walk down the street, put your ear up to the door, and if you like the music, go in. If...

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Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way

Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way

The Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland is the longest defined coastal touring route in the world! Ireland isn’t that big, you might think, but drive around the perimeter, with all of those coves and inlets, and you’ll be surprised how many kilometers you clock. I knew I wouldn’t have time to cover the whole route, so I started in the south and then headed up the west coast to see some of the most majestic parts, for as long as my...

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